This page is for personal, non-commercial use. Its purpose is to absorb and reduce harmonic vibrations from the engine as the crankshaft rotates, as harmonic vibrations at high engine speeds can cause accelerated wear and damage to the components. They are usually made of rubber and metal, which easily absorbs any harmonic vibrations that could harm the engine otherwise.
Usually a problem with the harmonic balancer will produce a few symptoms that can alert the driver of a potential problem that should be serviced. One of the first symptoms of a potential problem with the harmonic balancer is engine vibration. The harmonic balancer is specifically designed to absorb harmonic engine vibrations as engine speeds rise. If the harmonic balancer gets too old or fails and can no longer properly absorb the harmonic vibrations, the engine will shake excessively.
The shaking will become even more pronounced, and therefore dangerous to the engine at high speeds. Another symptom of a potential problem with the harmonic balancer is misaligned timing marks.
Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Crankshaft Harmonic Balancer
The harmonic balancers found on many vehicles are constructed as two pieces of metal with a rubber layer in between to dampen the vibrations. If the layers separate or slip, the timing marks, which are usually stamped into the front of the pulley, can shift and thus throw off the placement of the timing marks. This will make it difficult, if not impossible to properly time the engine with a timing light. Another more serious symptom of a problem with the harmonic balancer is a separated harmonic balancer.
If the rubber layer in the harmonic balancer dries or wears out, it can cause the entire harmonic balancer to completely fail by separating. If the harmonic balancer separates, the engine belts will usually come off and the vehicle will be left without engine accessories. The harmonic balancer is an engine component found on virtually all rotating internal combustion engines and plays an important role in protecting the engine from dangerous harmonic vibrations and potential damage.
For this reason, if you suspect that your harmonic balancer may be having an issue, have the vehicle inspected by a professional technician, such as one from YourMechanic. They will be able to determine if the vehicle needs a crankshaft harmonic balancer replacement. This article originally appeared on YourMechanic. Autoblog is partnering with YourMechanic to bring many of the repair and maintenance services you need right to you.
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But ads are also how we keep the garage doors open and the lights on here at Autoblog - and keep our stories free for you and for everyone. And free is good, right? If you'd be so kind as to whitelist our site, we promise to keep bringing you great content. Thanks for that. And thanks for reading Autoblog. You still haven't turned off your adblocker or whitelisted our site.Over the years, we have addressed the VE Commodore a couple of times in our various forms of marketing.
We have released a video review on the car and even covered the common faults that relate to the V6 Commodore timing chain.
That issue seems to plague these vehicles. After releasing both of these forms of vehicle reviews, we have copped a fair chunk of flack from various consumers. In response to this we have decided to address the issues with these vehicles once again with a straight to the point, what we think and why. The VE Commodore is not a particularly good choice of vehicle for a number of reasons.
We will address just a few of the common issues we see daily in our workshop.
Holden VE Commodore Common Problems
By buying a VE Commodore, new in its day or second hand now, you are willingly putting your hand up to be a guinea-pig to test the new platform. The single greatest issue is the timing chain fault that the V6 engine is very common for. Unfortunately the Holden V6 is known for stretched timing chains which is a very costly fix. Sticking with the V6 engine for now, there are other common faults these engines have. The Hydraulic lifters are known for getting very noisy and creating noises that can lead people to misdiagnose the above mentioned timing chain fault as the cause.
Noisy lifters are a common issue with the VE Commodore. To fix this the top of the inlet manifold has to be removed the spark plugs replaced or cleaned and reassembled. On a side note, these spark plugs are iridium plugs which makes replacing them rather expensive. The main battery location in the boot or behind seats in the utilities, seem to be causing semi common problems with voltage drop becoming excessive. This is relatively easily fixed but requires owners to spend a few quid on a battery with substantial CCA Cold Cranking Amps to combat the problem.
The Engine mounts always split, with the passenger one failing first due to the torque of the engine, causing it to twist under acceleration. The V6 thermostat location is ridiculous. There are many different opinions on what the best way to tackle this job is. Transmission out, manifold off or have tiny hands. There you have it. Our list of the most common things to be mindful of when it comes to the VE Commodore.
Bought a ve sv6, nothing but trouble. Just wondering if the gearbox on a 06 commodore ve auto would send it to limp mode.
Just going thru the process. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. He thinks it just needs an auto tune. The car also needs a new exhaust sensor. Just looking for some thoughts on the car and what the problem could be.
It sounds very odd. I doubt its a transmission problem from what your saying. I would get a reputable mechanic to give it the once over including a scan of the control modules before committing to buy this car. I have a VE wagon that the check engine ligjt keeps coming on.
Could it be E10 fuel.Select cars to compare from your search results or vehicle pages. What is this? Forget Motown - LA is where the car is king. It's an epicentre of car culture, with everyone from Mercedes to Mercury establishing design studios here to catch the Next Big Trend.
If Australia's Own was going to make an impression in the big wide world, what better place to start. Now we can't honestly say the Commodore stopped the traffic, but it slowed and clotted it to an amazing degree. Freeway lane changes became exercises in brinkmanship, as people took pace positions all around the VT, making the move to an exit or even the next lane tricky.
But with brother-in-law Mas and sister-in-law Karie aboard there were enough sets of eyes to pick out the smallest opening, usually announced with something like, "Quick, change lanes now - they've slowed down to look at the number plate!
This weekend we headed out of the San Bernardino freeway to Interstate 15 and thence to Interstate 40 and the trip across the Arizona's mountainous upper third. From the top of Cajon Pass, photographer Kent started noticing larger than the usual plague of Harleys you see in the States. Once onto I, the numbers went off the scale - we'd pass literally hundreds of the things heading back to LA on the other side of the freeway and would spot similar numbers at servos.
Our first petrol stop in Needles, California, at the Arizona border revealed the reason - there had been an annual get-together of Harleyoids in Laughlin, Nevada, with some 50, of the things. Obviously not all were started at the same time, as the vibration would have levelled the town.
After a stop at Ford's desert proving ground outside Kingman, Arizona a press on the intercom at the remotely gated entrance to ask, "Hey, you got any EAs in there? Surrounded with pine trees and looking more Swiss than southwestern, Flagstaff is a 'gateway' to the Grand Canyon and Monument Valley.
It doesn't take long to drop out of the alpine green of the Arizona highlands into a more traditional image of the American southwest - red-brown desert complete with jutting mesas. Seen in squillions of American Westerns John Ford's Stagecoachfor oneMonument Valley is as impressive as the big ditch which gets all the publicity a few kilometres to the east-southeast. What's surprising is that America's national park service doesn't administer the valley, but rather it comes under the auspices of the Navajo Nation.
We entered what most people refer to as the Navajo Indian Reservation just past Gray Mountain, Arizona, and didn't realise it till we were passed by a white Ford Expedition with red and blue roof lights flashing and the siren blaring. It looked not that dissimilar to many US police vehicles except for the 'Navajo Nation Police' emblems on the door.Welcome Guest!
The Omega is an 07 with 85K's, it is a lot more noticeable than the Sportswagon. It is an 08 with 50k's. I thought it may be just part of the car as both of them do it, but the omega is really starting to give me the sh! Is this a common fault? What is the cause? Thanks for any info you can give.
My work car '07 Omega 3. I think it's just a harmonic in the exhaust.VE Commodore Misfire
It's bad enough to buzz the interior mirror, but that's the only time it bothers me. Further info here Both those links refer to V8s, and at much higher road speeds than rpm would allow.
This is more a harmonic via the exhaust, not a tailshaft induced vibration, and it's perculiar to the V6. Yeah this is definately not a high speed thing. Most noticeable at around 60kph, and always at revs.
Speed up or slow down and it goes away. Exhaust you think? I might have to investigate this a bit further. It is really starting to give me the sh! Try swapping the front and rear wheels over and see if that makes a difference, even if you swap them back again.
Also you have to remember wagons will always have more noise than sedans so take that into account. Hi John, The sedan is a lot worse than the wagon. I expect that hollow echo sound you get with wagons.Remember Me? What's New? Results 1 to 15 of Thread: VZ Commodore running rough.
Thread Tools Show Printable Version. The last few days i's been running rough,like one cylinder is missing,the same symptoms as before I had the coils changed.
After about 10 mins shaking it goes back to normal all day. The mechanic said it's the computer common fault with Commodore.
Troubleshooting Engine Rough Idle Problems
Once the engine warms up ,no problem. Any ideas? Thanks in advance Gulliver. Originally Posted by gulliver. I have a VZ Commodore Its not the ECU, has he had it on a tech2 to diagnose it properly, Did you replace the plug leads? I'd be more inclined to say you have dirty dribbling injectors, does the car blow much black smoke on start up and when its running rough.
I've had similar problems in the past that were caused by the connection TO the coil. It's not necessarily any engine connections leads at all. IIRC it was a while ago it was the ignition connection. The symptoms were as you describe. The fact that there's a highway to hell and a stairway to heaven says a lot about the anticipated traffic flow. Originally Posted by carjackma. Most cars I fix with ECU problems are good when cold and play up when warm.
I am assuming he did a scan and no codes came up? Not necessarily in this order. K UPS. After you go for a drive and park it for 20minutes to 1 hour and you come back and start the engine it runs as rough to a point that the car stalls one in four times you do this.
Once I put the foot on the peddle its ok after this. If I leave the car over 1 hr its ok, if i leave the car over a day, one week, on month is ok. I was getting some one to look at it but I cant trust any Mechanic as I always done repairs myself. I can live with it. Last edited by Mr A; at AM. In my experience a car that runs rough when cold but fine when warmed up could indicate a bad intake manifold gasket, basically the car is able to suck air in vacuum leak when cold but when the car warms up the gasket makes a good seal no vacuum leak and runs fine.
There are a few ways to test for this 1 Spray some carb clean around the intake carefully when the car is running poorly, if the RPM changes when you spray a particular spot it means its sucking in from there. There are other ways but i would it would take forever to write.
Yes, I lost some water after a new radiator and thermostat.Have noticed when sitting at the lights my Ve seems not to sit on the same RPM as it jumps slightly and you can just feel it sitting in the cabin jump up about rpm maybe as the cars only done ks it might still be running in has anyone else had this problem.
I have a Calais V but its a V6. Its smooth azz when idling and hardly notice the car is running. I had a VZ V8 calais before the new one and the V8 was always smooth What sort of fuel are you using in the car? I used 98 RON premium. Shell V-Power. Maybe take the car for a long drive and maybe stretch its legs a few times. Have noticed when sitting at the lights my Ve seems not to sit on the same RPM as it jumps slightly and you can just feel it sitting in the cabin jump up about rpm maybe as the cars only done ks it might still be running in has anyone else had this problem Yeah mate I think you'll find this is normal with the 6ltr, my thunder idles pretty rough at times.
Nothing to be too worried about. Chuck a stage 3 cam in her then you'll have something to worry about! If you get no joy get it tuned. If you get it tuned you may want to do some minor mods to get the most out of your tune :search: use it, information is free! Yeah trust me i know how they idle with a cam my old VT had a cam and it was pretty rough on the idle. Yah - sounds pretty normal. The LS1's had a wobble to their stock idle too, not so much rough as just a slight speed variance which would be noticeable.
S'funny - you look at the engine and it doesn't seem to move in the bay, but sitting inside you feel the car wobble a bit. I dont seem to norice mine so much now it's had a tune - or maybe I'm used to it Mabe drop into a dealership and listen to another car to see if it's the same.
I've read so many stories in here where people have little running issues and all they get from the dealer is "it's normal", take it to someone who knows their 6litre and straight away they will tell you if it's normal.This page contains technical tips as submitted by visitors to this site. They are presented as is, try them at your own risk. Please remember to consult a professional if in doubt. If you have any other tech tips to add to this page, please email me.
VB - VK pools of oil appearing next to the carburettors on and engines. VH flasher unit only clicks on left or right turn and flashes quicker. VL Commodore 6cyl auto: first gear only revs out to approx rpm when floored, even in power mode.
Repair of interior window rubber at the top of the door trim, VN - VS Executive, Berlina, sedans and wagons, not sure about door trim construction on Calais, Statesman.
VN Commodore fuel pump operates continuosly after ignition is turned off. Batery not charging. Fault- poor connection or blown fuseable link brown wire at the battery positive terminal. VT Ute - The dashboard "battery light" intermittantly turns hard on while the headlights are on. Severe corrosion of the spade connector caused an open circuit or high resistance in the charging circuit. If you find dim, or partially working rear lights, a common problem found is water corroding electrical connections.
Thouroughly remove rust from globe sockets and mounts, then the full current can travel through the globe. I noticed that a lot of people write in about the tail lights on there early model commodores, most of the tail lights act like fish tanks and fill up of water thus making bad electrical contacts. First thing to do is drill small holes in the bottom of your tail lights then replace the tail light globe holders which are stocked by Holden or coventries.
This should put an end to your rear light and indicator problems. Holden did the stupid thing of hooking a 6 cylinder diff up to a V8, this causes the stock diffs to explode when put under intense load for long times eg: burnouts, heavy towing.
The best solution is to bolt up a diff to the or get a 9" diff for it. Stop looking for boot leaks through the boot seals. One of the most common places for the leak to occur is through the window seals front as well onto the front floor.
Usually due to rust under the seal as well. Naturally the window has to be removed and is quite possible that it will crack, especially if there are chips etc. Repair the rust if present,and reseal with a new seal.
The genuine VK window seal will fit into all of these and is much superior,also it doesn't have the annoying centre insert! Good Luck. Often as a mechanic I see people with complaints about oil in the inlet manifold valley next to the carburettor.
The inlet manifolds on blue and black engines warp near the egr crossover and oil leaks past the bolt and forms a pool of oil. The proper way to fix this is to remove and machine the manifold, but a temporary fix is to remove the 2 centre manifold bolts on the right side of the manifold and apply a sealant to the bolts and replace. It's a common problem but can be easily overcome!
I hope this can be of use! The most common cause of engine troubles with the motors was the Varajet carbi. It made the engines work to well bellow their potential. A cheap substitue for the varajet is a small Weber off of the XE falcons. They not only provide greater horse power but also increase your fuel effeciency. Water leaking in boot?
Then check the screws that fix the fuel cap onto the body of the vehicle. A bit of silicone rubber around the screws and surround should do the trick! A leaking boot is not always due to a faulty boot lid seal.